Monday, 9 May 2011

And so it begins...

After a month of intense training and daily meditation, honing my powers to deadly perfection, I am now prepared to undertake the impossible, the most agonizing war of attrition mankind has ever waged against computer...it is time to download a large photo album to Facebook.  We who are about to die salute you.

Tuesday, 19 April 2011

The City Built on Precipices

Hi everyone,
I feel like an extended paean to Edinburgh is an appropriate way to return to the blog after an extended absence.  Yes, that absence did include a vacation, which I will also be telling you about eventually, but seriously, how do I begin to describe this city I'm living in right now?

I made the right choice in waiting until spring to post pictures ('cuz it was totally my plan all along...), because Edinburgh...Edinburgh in blossom has to be one of the most beautiful things I've ever seen.  Every street corner has a flower bed just exploding with the entire rainbow of colors, and all the trees are covered in white and pink blossoms.  The Royal Mile side of Prince's Street Gardens (a public park in the valley between the two "halves" of the city) is a steep slope sweeping up to Edinburgh castle at the top, and it's currently covered in a carpet of daffodils.  And all of this lush, vibrant color set against the backdrop of the castle, always cool-looking stone and dark shadows...it's beautiful.  I love the fact that there's a real spring here--trees and flowers blooming for weeks at a time in cool weather, rather than what we have at home, which is really more of a pounce than a spring.  But the light is already the same as it would be in the middle of summer at home--the sun sets at around 8:30, and by real summer it will stay out until around 10:30.

That's something I've been thinking about a lot while watching the change of seasons here.  Light.  You all remember how I griped and moaned about the dark during the winter, and now that there has been a total reversal, I'm more aware of the glory of light itself, the richness, the subtle hues that sunlight at different times and qualities casts on what it touches, than I ever have been before.  At home we're used to long summer days, but I've never really enjoyed them this way before--how the sun seems to hang halfway up the sky for hours and hours.  All afternoon the light is broad, the rays warm, the shadows long, but it lingers.  It feels almost endless.  That's the real contrast between the seasons in Scotland, not hot and cold, but light and dark.  And the poignancy of the contrast almost makes the dark worth it.

(Almost.)

And Edinburgh!  The title of this post is a quote from GK Chesterton about the city, which really is built on one tall crag in particular and its hilly surroundings.  Everywhere you go, you're climbing, either a steep, sloping road or a staircase or something.  It took me a while to figure out what it is I like so much about the narrow exterior staircases, the little "closes" that lead between buildings to old courtyards set back from the road or just down to another street.  I like them because they give the whole city this feeling of being a human habitation.  It's not just the buildings that were built for people, with roads to get from one to another and maybe some little gaps left between them.  The gaps are staircases, passages, made for people to use, not just left in the cracks between the structures people use.  They give the stone and brick a sense of being a life-filled place.

It has such character, and such characters.  Street musicians who shift from acoustic to smooth jazz as the sun goes down (and that one guy who plays the drums in a gorilla suit, but I'm not exactly sure how to classify him).  Awesome Canadian girls who will start a roster for the Order of the Phoenix with me on the wall of the Elephant House bathroom (we now have 16 members).  In a few weeks, I'll be moving back to St. Andrews, and I'm looking forward to being "at home" among my friends there, but I am really going to miss Edinburgh.

It's an enchanting place.  And Facebook finally decided to finish downloading my pictures, so I can even show it to you.

Edinburgh in Blossom

Friday, 25 March 2011

Temptation

There is an empty room in my flat.

It got a 2011 Scotland Census.

You have no idea how badly I want to fill this thing out as George P. Burdell.

I know it's a felony.  That's why I won't do it.  But oh, MAN, do I want to.

Sunday, 20 March 2011

Fish Pedicure

Back by popular demand, Mint Beauty Therapy in Edinburgh is proud to offer its world-famous...fish pedicure!  (I don't know about you, but for me at least, this conjures up two distinct but equally fabulous mental images.)

Well, spring has not so much sprung as pounced--in the past week or so, things have started blooming, the weather is less frigid, and days are almost like real days again!  It was about a month ago that I came out of lab for a break at about 4:30 and realized the sun was still shining.  Now it stays up until 6-6:30, which is about normal for this time of year, yeah?  I'm getting more excited all the time for this summer and the extra-long days we'll have.

On the other hand, the arrival of spring means I now have no excuse not to wander around taking pictures of Heriot-Watt's campus and Edinburgh.  I was telling myself that I wasn't being lazy, I was just waiting until spring, so you could see the campus green instead of the dreary brown/grey it has been.  I was waiting for your own good.  Yeah.  That.  I tried to take some pictures in Holyrood Park yesterday during my two hours' walk, but pictures simply cannot do justice to hills like that.  (I discovered this same, tragic truth while trying to take pictures on my trip to the Highlands last November.)  But all this to say, pictures will be forthcoming.

Not a whole lot is happening over here in the ghetto (as I recently learned my side of campus is called...snicker).  I have two weeks of class left, and I only have one more big assignment plus studying for the GRE to do in that time.  Next weekend I'll be in St. Andrews for a conference, and I'll get to stay with my old flatmates, which will be great--I miss them a lot, and it'll be good to "live" with them for a few days again.  And then, the weekend after that, my dad will be here!  So excited to see him and go on vacation in England!  We come back for exams right after Easter, and then I'll be moving back to St. Andrews in mid-May.  But for the time being, it's just class-lab-study-try to finish the leftover gumbo from Wednesday.  Seriously, there was SO MUCH left, eating it really is its own item on my to-do list.  ...Oh!  I have accomplished one thing, I think a first since I started college.  I started--and finished--a whole novel--in just one semestre!  I finished The Idiot this afternoon, and was so proud of myself.  I actually read something non-academic during term!

Word from da ghetto, peeps.  Peace out.

Saturday, 19 March 2011

My Proudest Moment

So, last Wednesday two friends and I made gumbo for the chaplaincy's weekly international students dinner.  It was a lot of fun (and I'll be eating leftover gumbo until next Wednesday...no joke).  I wanted to do "American food" in general and Southern food in particular, so gumbo and a green salad worked well for that.  But we all know what else has to go with a Southern meal, and that brings me to my proudest moment ever, which I consider to be a great cultural victory...I converted a British man to sweet tea.

Monday, 7 March 2011

And then the world turned purple

...and other things that can throw off one's groove.

Hello everyone,
Well, it's been about a month since I last posted, and were it not for the events of this past week, I wouldn't feel quite as bad about that as I currently do.  This week has...changed things, to say the least.  Those of you with Facebook (or frequent contact with my mother) already know this, so I apologize to everyone sans Facebook for keeping you out of the loop until after the fact.

But enough suspense.  I know I've told you a bit in the past about talking to faculty at St. Andrews about PhDs, but I don't know if I ever told you about a scholarship I applied for back in January called the SUPA studentship.  It's a big prize, giving tuition, a stipend, research money, the works, to maybe 10 students each year to enter PhD programmes at one of eight participating Scottish universities.  It's one of the only sources of funding available to international students, and I applied for it because I was just interested enough in studying at St. Andrews to want to keep the option open.  I subsequently deferred all thoughts of St. Andrews, because they were all moot unless I got this funding, which I didn't really expect to get.

Well, a week ago today, I got it.  St. Andrews came back onto the table again, this time with a two-week firm-decision deadline.  My first reaction was that that was not nearly time enough, as I had just barely started trying to find programs and faculty at other places back in the States that looked interesting; how in the world was I supposed to make this decision with no other options on the table to weigh it against?  But oddly, it only took about a day and a half--and some incredible wisdom in several of my friends' e-mails--for me to come to the conclusion where I have stayed since then, and this morning I wrote back to the SUPA people accepting the position.  I've officially agreed to stay here for three years for a PhD, and I have full funding.

The realization I came to had a bunch of different components, and really it starts with things I know I've said before about how I feel about St. Andrews in general and my church there, Trinity, in particular.  Last semester I felt distinctly that I could easily make that town home; I was already beginning to feel at home there, and more than that, I wanted to get involved in the things my church was doing and spend more time cultivating the relationships I was forming there, and the fact that I didn't have time frustrated me.  So going into this semester at Heriot-Watt, I knew I would be grateful for more time at St. Andrews if I could get it.  Hence my joy at being able to go back for my summer project, and hence the swiftly growing sense of certainty that suddenly being given the material opportunity to go back was no coincidence.

The main obstacle in my mind was the same fear of the huge distance--the change, the sense of being uprooted and entrenching myself in a different place so far away--that I have been dealing with in all my hypothetical thoughts about staying, sharpened by the fact that it was no longer hypothetical.  The "answer" I was given--whether it settled on me or welled up from within--was best articulated by my friend Annie, whom I'm going to shamelessly quote here:

Though time could make the decision easier, know that time is in God's hands. Though greater perspective would be nice in knowing the right choice, take comfort the God has the greatest perspective, and his choices are right. Take comfort and confidence that you are not alone, and you are supported when you feel pressured and everything feels too big to bear. One choice and you have decided the way the rest of your life will be lived...yet your life, every choice you make, is not to big for your God.


She managed to express my growing sensation that God had, indeed, answered my prayers for clear direction by giving me a desire to live in and serve a particular place, and the means to go there, in that order; and she reminded me that my fear was, at its root, the fear of not being infinite, which is not something I can or should try to grasp for myself, but something to relinquish in faith.  All this to say, it took about 36 hours for all this to happen (many thanks for all the thoughts and prayers from those I exploded the news to in my initial complete and total bewilderment) and for my fears to settle enough for me to realize that I have been given precisely the opportunity I've been wanting with increasing certainty.


So I have decided to stay.  On top of all these thoroughly non-academic reasons and thoughts, there is, of course, the PhD itself.  I'll be frank, I have a very good feeling about my advisors and my interaction with them--when we've spoken, both before and after the scholarship offer, they both understand and appreciate my sense that what I really want this summer is to find out whether I want to do PhD research with them--they love the fact that I'm pursuing something out of curiosity, not quite sure it's my niche but willing to try it, and the absolute worst case scenario in this whole situation is that at the end of the summer, all three of us would realize that that's not the case.  and if I realize I don't want to stay, I won't; SUPA wouldn't be too happy with me for reneging, but that isn't the end of the world.  (I mean, what can they do, force me to stay in the country?)  But this summer still is what it was before--a chance to find out whether this is what I really want, and if it is, then I have a perfect continuation at the end of it.  Talk about an incredible opportunity.


So this has been a topsy-turvy week, and very exciting.  I have more musings and more random anecdotes for you from the past few weeks of Heriot-Watt and Edinburgh, anecdotes involving smooth jazz, real live daylight, and some awesome Canadian girls, but I will defer those until another time.  For now, I wanted to make sure you knew my big news, and I will write about other things later.  Good night to all!
--Kaley

Sunday, 6 February 2011

Best Bathroom Graffiti EVER

Intriguing title, yes?  I'll get back to that.

Well, much to my relief, I got onto the blog today and discovered that I HAVE updated you guys at least once since I got to HW--I couldn't quite remember whether I had or not, so this means I won't have to dig nearly as far into my memory for updates as I thought I was going to.

First, an update regarding what the heck I'm doing this summer: I get to go back to St. Andrews!  The meeting I mentioned with a professor back at St. A's two weeks ago went really well, and I asked him whether he'd be willing to advise me (aka let me work in his lab) for my dissertation project this summer, and he said yes!  So I am officially returning to St. Andrews and doing research for my project.  The professor (my advisor, I should say), Carlos, completely understood my sense that I want to "try" research in his field before pursuing a PhD, and we will be working this semester to set up a project for me to do in his lab.  "His field," by the way, is single-molecule biophysics, and I'll likely be using a technique called "FRET" to study the structural changes in molecules like RNA when they bind/unbind to other molecules. It's really cool.  (Trust me on this.)  He also knows about the research being done in the States in the area (biophysics is a better-established field at home and most of the big groups are there), so he can help me direct my search for other schools and groups to investigate.

It's also cool because I get to go back to St. Andrews, which is still my favorite of the two places I've lived here.  HW has been a bit better as I've gotten involved with the CU and visited some churches in Edinburgh and gotten more into the swing of classes.  Unfortunately, I probably won't be doing any dance or martial arts classes like I'd hoped--there aren't any on campus, and the time commitment and expense (which isn't huge but does add up) of the commute by bus keep me from going into town except on weekends, really.  However, I am going to try to travel (*fingers crossed*) to Europe this semester (a friend pointed out to me the ease of it if I can just get the time).  And even staying in Edinburgh, weekends are really nice.  I think I'm going to make spending Saturday and/or Sunday afternoons in town a weekly tradition--there are free walking tours of the city, and I'm enjoying finding little hole-in-the-wall places for lunch and reading or doing work in cafés rather than in my room.

Which brings me to the best bathroom graffiti ever.  There's a café called The Elephant House that became minorly famous because it's where JK Rowling wrote the first few Harry Potter books.  I found it (totally by accident, I swear) (and I actually am serious) and discovered that it has good coffee, cheap refills (which is unusual here), and good elephant-shaped shortbread cookies.  Its bathroom is also completely covered in Harry Potter-themed graffiti.  Quotes from the books, "Long live the Boy Who Lived," notes to JKR; it's fantastic.  The doorframe has a 100-person list of names labeled "Dumbledore's Army."  Yes, I did try to add myself.  My pen didn't work, but next week I'm going back with a better pen.

I went to a new church today, St. Columba's, which is right on the Royal Mile, and was completely bewildered when the pastor of my church in St. Andrews walked up to the pulpit.  The churches are the same denomination--Free Church of Scotland--and he was guest preaching today, so it was a good treat to see him and catch up.  He preached a fantastic sermon on Luke 23 (the crucifixion), which illuminated a lot of what I've been reading on my own in Romans.

And I think that brings you pretty much up to speed.  I realize I still have no pictures for you; in my defense, I did bring my camera to town today, but it was raining.  And HW isn't that nice-looking, anyway, so you're not missing much.

Best wishes to all of you, and (unless I surprise myself and post again soon) Happy Valentine's Day!